Solar & Battery Install - Where do you start?
How much solar or battery do I need?
When looking at what size of solar and battery system I need, everyone I've asked gave me the same answer “get as much as you can afford”. However I wanted to know what's the minimum I need and then I can could use that as a starting point. Here's how I approached it:
1. What's my base load
I took an electric meter reading after everyone went to bed and another when I got up in the morning. The difference divided by the number of hours is my base load. Did a few readings just to get a good average and in my case my base load is around 150 watts (0.15kwh).
Tip: If you charge an electric vehicle overnight, try and do your measurements on a night when the cars not charging. The reasoning is that if you have an EV you'll likely be charging it using an off-peak tariff and not solar or battery so your sizing needs to exclude it.
2. What's my daily consumption
I took a daily reading before I went to bed for a few nights, I also took a full weeks reading and divided by 7. Again I took a few readings to get an average and my daily consumption is about 8kwh
Tip: Again if you charge an electric vehicle, try and do your measurements without a charge being included.
3. What's my peak load
I don't use a lot of high demand items, but I looked at the big appliances (kettle, cooker, immersion heater, hair dryer, electric shower, electric radiator etc) and thought about any that were used at the same time for extended periods (ie greater than an hour). My peak load seems to be when I have my morning shower as I use an electric shower. The shower peak was just over 9kw however that was only for 15 minutes. My next peak after that was around 4kw when I use a cooker and a kettle at the same time.
Tip: If you're unsure and your daily load is under 7.2kwh then it's likely a 3kw peak will be sufficient.
4. So how much solar/battery do I need?
Solar panels - I'm sizing my panels based upon a typical Scottish day (mostly cloudy and not many hours of sun 🤣). From what I've read even on mostly cloudy days solar panels produce energy, however it's as low as 10% of their capacity. So I sized my panels by multiplying my base load by 10 giving a minimum solar panel capacity required of 1.5kw. In other words, if I have a 1.5kw array and I get 10% generation on cloudy days, that will be enough to cover my base load of 150 watts.
Battery - I need a battery that's going to provide good chunk of my daily load. So for me 8kwh battery is the starting point. However as the solar panels will cover the base load (0.15kwh) on most days during daylight hours, I can reduce the battery size by that amount. In my case I worked on 4 hours of sun during winter and that would mean my battery could be 0.6kwh less (ie solar would provide 4 hours at 150 watts). Also I plan to add any extra charge to the battery using an off peak tariff like Octopus Go, so as the battery will be charging during the off peak period it won’t be able to give power during that time, so if my off peak period is 4 hours that’s another 0.6kw less.
So minimum battery size would be around 6.8kwh of usable capacity. During winter it would get most of its charge from an off peak energy tariff, during summer it would fully charge in 4-5 hours of full sun from the 1.5kw solar panels.
Lastly I need an inverter & battery that will allow enough to meet peak load. Whilst I could look at one to meet my peak peak (ie 9kw) that's going to be much more expensive than my next peak at 4kw. So max discharge rate of 4kw will do and I'll accept that occasionally I may exceed it's peak and have to draw any excess from the grid.
5. My Conclusion
The minimum I need is 1.2kwp of solar panels (I will likely go for more, but this is the minimum I could get away with), a battery that has a usable capacity of 6.8kwh, and an inverter that can give a max load of 4kw. I can add more if I can afford it, but this setup will meet a large chunk of my needs.
Great article, really clear process that I think will be helpful to others. I would be interested in a follow up on your experiences with Octopus Go.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the feedback. My Octopus Go switch started today so here’s hoping it goes well 🤞
DeletePG, interesting read, although I approached it slightly differently. We had our solar fitted back in 2011 (a standard 3.86kWh (pk) system), for the original FITs deadline, that has worked well but couldn’t produce power in the event of a power cut, (it needs to sync with the grid to work), so last year I started looking at options to get round that, the rising energy prices, and I wanted to be able to run the house for 24hrs with no grid (we still get occasional power cuts, even in Somerset! I also wanted to become a net producer to help insulate us from any ridiculous future price rises.
DeleteThis meant a 10kWh battery as a minimum & more solar to keep it charged, also wanted an EV charger (as it would be cheaper as a bundle).
So we ended up with another 3.5kWh of solar and a 13kWh battery.
This produces enough solar to run our base load (about 250 overnight & 500 during the day), unless we have very heavy cloud cover.
Without any solar production, the battery can run the house for 24hrs, including the electric oven, kettle, microwave etc.
We’re in the process of switching to Octopus Flux, import went live a few days after requesting it. Export is a bit trickier as it means moving the deemed export from OVO (Ex SSE), that’s proving difficult as OVO don’t seem to understand the process!
So our low use EVs get charged at the overnight cheaper rate (it’s about 14p/kWh), along with the house battery (if needed), or by solar if it’s sunny.
Once that’s set up, I may move to EON, as their Next Drive & fixed export tariffs are better than Octopuses Go with the low rate export (8p currently).
In short, we are buying little to no energy from the grid at full price, it’s only in the last 2 weeks that import has exceeded export and our total export in the 2 months since the system went active, we’ve exported 538kWh (won’t get paid for it as the set up of export is dragging badly - but that’s another story).
But it shows that the system is doing what I wanted as a requirement.
Very interesting, I am hoping to move house in the next couple of years and will definitely be investing in a PV and battery setup, choosing a supplier seems to be a bit of a minefield so I will take your advice and do a lot of research.
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your project and I hope my tips & hints helps.
DeleteVery good write up, the other reason I went for the LUX was that the battery inverter I bought was a parallel unit, so I can add a second parallel one to allow me to charge & discharge at a little over 7kw.
ReplyDeleteThis would more than cover my needs with carful operation of induction cooker & oven etc.
But I would need to add at least 3 Pylontech 2.4kwh batteries & have it all re-certificated with DNO if allowed due to potential increased generation although it's still limited not to grid export.
But at the moment there is no justification in spending further money when it's all working well together
Regards
Alan Chapman
Thanks Alan.
DeleteFor those who are interested Alan also has a blog about his energy efficiency project which has been up and running for a few years. His blog is at the link below:
https://oakwoodalan.co.uk/
Nice workings.
ReplyDeleteFor me, our house usage is 12-13,000kwh per year (EV +ASHP).
The maximum that can fit on our roof is about 6kwp, and that should produce about 5,500 per year.
So it seems a no brainer to go for it, and then just try and maximise our self consumption. And as such, I haven't bothered to work out our base load and peak etc etc.
Going for a small 5kwh battery to start with, as I'm confident that'll be enough to just see us through the few hours of evening peak electricity costs. (ASHP and EV are never drawing power at these times anyway)
You might find the 5kwh battery is enough. For 9 months of the year it could charge twice a day - once from solar to give evening capacity, and once overnight in off-peak window for morning capacity.
DeleteAcer, my solar install is being done by Moixa as part of the overall package.
DeleteThank you. Makes sense and easy to follow. I'll give it a go
ReplyDeleteThanks, glad I could help
DeleteJust read the blog and very informative. We have 4kWp panels plus 3kWh battery installed by Moixa in 2019. At the moment battery only charged from solar but looking to switch to time varying tariff (Octopus). I'm interested in working out whether its worth swapping to a larger battery.
ReplyDeleteSammy, it all depends on your demand. You may also find the Moixa FB group a great place to find information about upgrade options
DeleteThis is a nice and simple read.. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteWe are hoping to have 3.68kwp with the same amount from inverter but are going bigger like 10kwh for battery..
My theory is it might help to fill in the gaps on very dull days in winter.. But I guess we will find out! ��
Thanks for the feedback. I wanted it to be an easy read 👍. If you can afford the big battery then go for it. Only thing to consider is that topping up in winter will require an off-peak tariff which you'll struggle to get unless you have an EV
DeleteWe currently do not have an EV..how would that evidence need to be shown.. wasn't aware that off peak wasn't available without EV..
DeleteOctopus Go was the goto tariff for battery owners, but recently they have started to ask for evidence of an EV (ie vehicle registration). You could source a second hand EV and that would meet the criteria, but then that's extra cost - although you would then have an EV to drive
DeleteDo hybrid plugin count as ev
DeletePlug in hybrid does qualify as an EV for most EV tariffs
DeleteYes good read, now if I could find a method of picking a solar brand, I would be done thanks
ReplyDeleteThanks for your time and effort, very good read. Andi D.
ReplyDeleteAndi, glad to hear it helped
DeleteReally helpful as Im just starting to look at PV. Would you agree or disagree that its is best to max out your roof space with panels, coupled with a suitable battery storage system as inevitably we will all be using much more electricity in the future? Heat pumps, EV chargers, electric hobs etc.
ReplyDeleteIn principle maxing out is a good idea, however for most it's about affordability and maxing out may make it unaffordable. Personally I'd recommend sizing for your needs
DeleteThis is a good read, thank you!
ReplyDeleteI have an EV and Oct/Go atm so I think that I will go with a 4.8kwh system (2 x 2.4 Pylons) which i being advertised locally at under 4k
4.8kwh of battery fir £4k is a little high. Usually you can get batteries installed for around £500/kwh. You also don’t need a solar specialist to install them, a good spark can do it for you.
DeleteHave a look at this site and you’ll see kit which a spark could install https://www.itstechnologies.shop/collections/pylontech-us2000-us3000-phantom
Very good intro article for those of us who 'don't know where to start'. It might be helpful if you would list what is an average consumption of typical household appliances. It was easy for me to find that a microwave is 800 W, and a kettle is ~2000. But my washing machine (even if I have a manual) remains a mystery - it lists consumption per washing cycle! I have not tackled a vacuum cleaner yet. And could be is a dryer (on my wish list...) What about a small fountain pump in the garden? Sure, I don't need to have ALL appliances at the same time, but it would be reasonable that I would have washer, dryer and a kettle (or a microwave). Or running washer, dryer and vacuuming.
ReplyDeleteOh yes... a hair dryer probably eats W too! Sure, you don't use it much, but I am looking for 'power-grabbing' appliances and thinking what combination is likely.
DeleteWord of warning a microwave will probably be using 1200/1300 if it shows 800w power, our is 950w and draws 1400
DeleteVery useful and been working through quotes and suppliers after sizing system requirements etc - (going for 24 panels split evenly E/W, 8kWh string inverter), one of the companies then sent revised quotes with a single battery 9.5 option or twin chargers with two 5.2 batteries (at a higher cost of course). I have struggled to find any online material with pros and cons for those different set ups to compare to what they tell me. Any thoughts ?
ReplyDeleteFirstly, two 5.2kwh batteries will give you more capacity than one 9.5kwh. As long as there’s not a significant premium for that extra capacity, then the only difference might be battery specification as some models have a lower charge/discharge rate and that might be a difference in your 5.2kwh batteries compared to the 9.5kwh ones
DeleteI'm interested in the part where you mention just having a battery that charges off-peak and then is used in the day time, i.e skip the solar panels bit entirely and just use cheap rate electric? I have the octopus 6 hour over night deal already to charge my electric car so given the day time rate is 4x the cheap rate, a 7-8kw battery will easily cover all my non-car daily needs. I am not sure solar panels will do much for me given angle of my roof versus sun etc so I don't want to go the whole hog - even if it saves me 5% - though I guess I could just by 1 panel if that offsets the 5% vat free savings? Thanks
ReplyDeleteThere’s quite a few people who’ve looked at this and just installed batteries. Have a look at this FB group and you’ll see https://www.facebook.com/groups/2197329430289466/
Deletescarcely a reply to this thread, but what will be the uplifted FIT payments for installation ,4kWp, , yaer <2011?
ReplyDeleteYou need to be careful about changing a FIT system. There is a paper from Ofgem that explains what you can/can’t do without effecting your FIT payments. You can find details on this group https://www.facebook.com/groups/2197329430289466/
DeleteFor base load then, it would be my meter reading last night, minus my meter reading this morning divided by 9 hours. So I got 0.11111
ReplyDeleteOr is there something else I need to do? This seems different to your explanation above.
Yes that’s the correct calculation. Roughly your base load is about 110watts.
DeleteOr does that just equate to 11w?
DeleteAh, perfect. Is there a way of getting a more accurate figure? (Ignore the 11w bit above, I meant 110w).
ReplyDeleteYou don’t really need to be much more accurate, going to the nearest hundred watts fir sizing is good enough
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ReplyDeleteThis article presents a thoughtful and systematic approach to determining the ideal solar and battery system size for personal energy needs. The author's step-by-step breakdown of calculating base load, daily consumption, and peak load offers readers a clear method to evaluate their energy requirements. The tips provided, especially regarding excluding electric vehicle charging from measurements, add practicality to the process. The author's calculations and reasoning behind solar panel and battery size choices demonstrate a comprehensive understanding of energy dynamics. Additionally, the article's personal touch and call for feedback create a sense of community and engagement. Overall, this piece provides valuable insights for individuals considering solar and battery installation while emphasizing the importance of customization to one's specific circumstances. For more details, visit Solar Panel Dealer In Chennai
Thank you for your blog post, as a newbie to Solar and in the early days of entering this rabbit hole, it was very helpful..so thank you!
ReplyDeleteDidn’t realise anonymous..
DeleteGlad to hear it helped. Any questions just ask
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